A residential area west of the city centre, Yoyogi Uehara is composed of a seemingly endless maze of tiny streets, but is compact enough to easily explore on foot. It's one of our favourite neighbourhoods for casual and friendly eateries, such as the okonomiyaki joint Gokirakutei with its affable mama-san and the chicken skewer specialist Fuku. The fluffy handmade doughnuts at Haritts make the challenge to find it worthwhile, Owan serves up Japanese tapas in a modern zen setting, and Honma Saketen in nearby Sasazuka sells a rare selection of Japanese sake.